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Muscat is known as a sweet wine, but California s Cruse makes a game-changing dry version

Muscat is known as a sweet wine, but California s Cruse makes a game-changing dry version Muscat is known as a sweet wine, but California s Cruse makes a game-changing dry version In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends a white wine that has fallen out of fashion FacebookTwitterEmail Welcome to Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she No wine holds as many contradictions as Muscat. It’s a white wine that is both timeless and passé. Even when it’s made with no residual sugar, it tastes kind of sweet, reminiscent of fruit candy. In the canon of grape varieties, Muscat has a certain nobility: It was cultivated in antiquity, and it is the progenitor of many grape varieties that arrived later in history such as the now-in-vogue Mission, the Greek grape Aleatico and the Italian Grillo. But many modern Muscat incarnations are often derid

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