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Pilgrims carry a cross on the final leg of the Northern Cross pilgrimage to Holy Island near Berwick-upon-Tweed in Northumberland. For more than 35 years, during the week leading up to Easter, groups of pilgrims walk together from various places in the No LITTLE though they know it, ramblers who pass through Hoolet are being eyed up. Do they look as if they might enjoy a coffee or home-made scone to see them on their way? So many walkers traipse by, weighed down by backpacks, they surely represent a potential gold mine when finally hospitality can resume. It is a long time since we had a shop or cafe, and the lack is often bemoaned. Nor is it just villagers who feel the loss. Hoolet lies on the St Cuthbert’s Way, a well-trodden pilgrim route that begins in Melrose, where Cuthbert started out as a monk, and runs to Lindisfarne, where he ended his days as Bishop. While there are signposts, you’ll still often be stopped for directions by strangers in gaiters, bemused