“Otherwise,” he says, looking over his vineyards from a winery terrace, “you are just drinking alcohol.”
Aglianico, not known for its perfection or nuance, typically makes high-octane wines of tannic power and rusticity. But a new generation of winemakers has helped change that image over the past 20 years. Moio and Quintodecimo have been important players in that change.
A conversation with Moio is like a glass of one of his wines. Those wines combine the local, southern spice and his interpretation of his
terroirs with an overall feeling of bone-dryness and balance that makes me think “French.”
Moio studied primarily in Burgundy, where he earned a Ph.D. for his work on the chemistry of aromas and flavors in wine and food. His bestselling 2016 Italian wine book,