Ahead of an expected I.P.O., the streetwear giant is opening a new store and headquarters in Lower Manhattan. To Hypebeast’s founder, the move is more than just a flex for the market.
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Picking up right where the enigmatic brand left off, Japan’s no. (pronounced “number”) has served up another round of skewed menswear for Fall/Winter 2021, demonstrating its anonymous design team’s acumen with pattern-making and garment production. Staple items have been torn asunder and inverted, cleverly remixing otherwise recognizable silhouettes.
Alongside conventional, if high-end, takes on field jackets, pullover sweaters and slacks, no. imagines adventurous deconstruction across coats, jackets, shirts and pants. Oversized wool coats and blazers sport ragged seams that stand out in stark white while overshirts are sliced to navel-length or interspersed with panels of new fabric, mirroring the inset designs of various T-shirts and collarless shirts. Trousers feature layered sections interrupted by adjustable straps, channeling bondage feel and a punkish motif that coincides with the other shredded outerwear.
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Yoshio Kubo‘s eponymous labels have swelled in popularity over the last year or so as the designer continues to show internationally and collaborate with Reebok. Fall/Winter 2021 is an expansion of concepts presented in recent seasons, issuing another selection of clean shapes, premium construction and flipped heritage.
Japanese tradition is important for Kubo’s creative process, showcasing variety of garments inspired by classi shapes and heritage construction. For instance, rich floral jacquards and deep dyes were inspired by the Japanese craftspeople who painstakingly assemble kimono or furniture, including those who worked in the factory that Kubo utilized as the backdrop for his presentation.