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I have been visiting the central Victorian region of Heathcote and writing about its wines for almost 25 years.
I’ve watched as sun-bleached paddocks have been transformed into verdant vineyards, as new wineries and cellar doors have opened down dirt roads and on highways, as countless new Heathcote labels have appeared on bottle shop shelves and wine lists.
And throughout that past quarter-century of change, I’ve listened to winemakers debating what it is that makes shiraz from this part of the world unique.
Wild variations in country and conditions produce quite different styles of wine in Heathcote.
Alamy