Clever, persuasive New American dishes built on a foundation of classics. For a light meal, order a couple of fanciful appetizers in place of an entrée. If you're in the mood for more substantial fare, try one of the superb game dishes, such as rabbit or pheasant. For a finale, order any sweet thing that's red and ripe strawberry shortcake, say, or a pear poached in zinfandel.