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Griilo grapes at Tenuta Whitaker / Photo by Salvo Mancuso
Some of Italy’s most fascinating white wines are made in Campania, in the country’s south, and on two main islands, Sardinia and Sicily. There, millennia-old native grapes dominate. Scrupulous vineyard management and modern vinification methods yield inimitable, savory white wines loaded with personality.
Discover southern Italy’s best whites made with indigenous grapes.
Fiano grapes at Villa Raiano / Photo courtesy of Villa Raiano
Fiano
Fiano is most associated with Campania, where it’s widely grown. Native to the region, the grape produces structured whites that range from medium- to full-bodied and have beeswax and floral aromas. Their rich orchard fruit flavors are often accented with compelling, smoky mineral sensations, honey, aromatic herb and hazelnut. The best have great energy as well as intriguing complexity. To maintain freshness and aromas, Fiano producers most often vinify in steel tanks.
The story of a young worker from Albania who became an entrepreneur in Italy
His name is Ermal Gjuzi, he is 29 years old, from Albania, and has been living and working in Scanzano Jonico (Matera) for 10 years now. I came to Italy as a worker, because I knew there was a demand for labour in the strawberry orchards of Metapontino. Now I am the owner of a farm that employs 50 people, 25 of whom are employed all year round .
Ermal Gjuzi During the first five years, I worked hard, while also building trust with my employer, who then supported me in the pursuit of my dream of setting up my own business. I started out growing less than 2 hectares of strawberries, and have now rented 10 hectares, plus another 3 hectares dedicated to vegetables. I grow mainly Sabrosa-Candonga, but one hectare is also cultivated with Fortuna, a variety that allows me to open the strawberry campaign in November.
A friend asks why so many of my recent reviews have awarded top marks. She wonders if perhaps I am being kind, given everything that’s going on. Is it kindness not to write about the bad meals? Perhaps. There have been plenty. I haven’t told you about the takeaway labelled with an expiry date several days past that went straight into the bin. (Yes, I got a refund but was I tempted to reorder? Er, no.). I haven’t shared the story of the fish that turned to mush when reheated nor named and shamed the (expensive) shocker of a kit that looked as if it had been thrown together by a toddler and gave us all upset stomachs.
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