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In February 2020, longtime Chicago restaurant publicist Lacey Irby and chef Ryan Brosseau were on the edge of signing a lease. For months, they’d plotted their new restaurant Dear Margaret, a tribute to the chef’s French-Canadian roots but ultimately passed on the space. Four weeks later, COVID-19 shuttered Chicago’s dining rooms and bars, and the pair felt they had dodged a bullet. Now, after nearly a year, Dear Margaret is finally open for carryout and delivery in Lakeview. Brosseau (Perennial Virant, Table, Donkey and Stick) aims to warm diners’ hearts and stomachs with large portions designed specifically for easy transport in using French techniques and ingredients sourced in the Midwest and Ontario. His menu offerings include putsinsm (braised chicken and whole wheat dumplings in bone broth); and tourtière (a savory Canadian meat pie filled with mushroom, potato, herb, and pork inside a lard crust).

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