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I’m sitting at the sushi counter at Kyoten Next Door and feeling completely weirded out. It’s only partly because of the food. I had just downed a piece of raw hamachi so buttery, it dissolved into nothingness in a fraction of a second. This vanishing act left me to marvel at the distinct grains of rice — tender, warm and spiked with a splash of vinegar. But if this is owner Otto Phan’s second .

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