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At Yellow Rose, a Texas-y taqueria in the East Village, owner Krystiana Rizo and chef-owner Dave Rizo make their own semi-natural version of Cherry Coke, an effort that, at first, seems to miss the whole point of Cherry Coke. One does not consume a watermelon Jolly Rancher for the perfume of tropical fruit, an orange ice for the aroma of Florida citrus, or a jug of Kool-Aid for a cruel taste of machete-harvested Sharkleberry Fin. Consumers typically seek out these confections for their static, scientifically calibrated scents (like the much-discussed artificial banana) and for the youthful summertime sentiments they conjure up.