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This Japanese Slab May Be the Secret Spot We All Dream Of Thursday June 3, 2021
If we’re being honest, most surfers only love a secret spot when they’re in on the secret. But no matter
how secret a wave is (or why some insist on keeping it that way), there is one shared fascination we can all appreciate about them: they make us daydream like crazy.
When you don’t know how to get to a wave, when you don’t know its quirks or how rare its best days are, what you do get is the chance to let your mind wander. It gets to live in dreamland. And this a-frame slab in Japan fits the bill.
Inside Mark Healey’s O’Neill Wave of the Winter Winner
Breaking down the winning ride after a wild and weird WOTW season
Winner winner, chicken dinner. Photo: Christa Funk
Dashel Pierson
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Another year, another O’Neill Wave of the Winter done and dusted.
And if you haven’t heard – or watched the short film yet – Mark Healey won. The longtime charger, venerable waterman, and spearfishing wizard took home the $25,000 grand prize for his Pipeline freight train amidst a field of Outer Reef bombs, Backdoor drainers, and (literally) hundreds of other entries.
But, as with every year, there can be only one winner. And the panel of judges – including Gerry Lopez, Shane Dorian, Pancho Sullivan and Shawn Briley – chose Healey. Most shocked at the announcement, was Healey himself.