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Casa Borinqueña has been feeding Oakland locals hungry for island cuisine since 2018. The pop-up and catering business won devout fans with pernil, shrimp mofongo, chicharrón de cerdo, and tostones con pollo. But last summer, Chef Lulu (who asked to be attributed by her first name) shocked, and in some cases angered, the small community when she veganized her menu. Many told the chef, who was raised on the archipelago and in Brooklyn, that Puerto Rican dishes sans meat, particularly pork, could never be authentic. “I started to question my own culinary skills: Would I be able to truly achieve the flavors?” chef Lulu asked herself. “I was also really sad because I felt abandoned by my own community. There was a sense of mourning. And there was also fear. I became anxious. I wondered if this was a good business move and, if it wasn’t, if I could ever recover from it.”

New yorkUnited statesPuerto ricoPuerto ricanCasa borinquenChef luluSan juanKarina munozEarthy kitchenCentral floridaBon appetitபுதியது யார்க்ஒன்றுபட்டது மாநிலங்களில்ப்வெர்டோ ரிக்கோப்வெர்டோ ரிக்கன்காசா பொறியூன்