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The L A chef who created the perfect modern izakaya, Tsubaki

Charles Namba's road to Tsubaki, L.A.'s beloved izakaya, and Ototo sake bar began with a dead-end pizza job, an escape from LA to NYC and a return to the food of his childhood.

Los angelesUnited statesNew yorkEcho parkBeverly hillsMacau generalMel melcon los angelesCourtney kaplanCharles nambaStephanie breijo los angelesDavid waltuckKaren waltuckLos angeleLos angeles timesMacao trading companyMulberry street

He was a fry cook with few restaurant ambitions Then he smelled the lobster stock

Charles Namba's road to Tsubaki, L.A.'s beloved izakaya, and Ototo sake bar began with a dead-end pizza job, an escape from LA to NYC and a return to the food of his childhood.

Los angelesUnited statesEcho parkMacau generalNew yorkDavid waltuckCharles nambaKaren waltuckMacao trading companyLos angeles timesMacao tradingEleven madison parkThomas kellerCharles nambaCourtney kaplan

Even Through COVID, Restaurant Family Meal Must Go On

Even Through COVID, Restaurant Family Meal Must Go On © Provided by Food & Wine Marcus Smith A family meal at Virtue restaurant. Before the COVID-19 pandemic upended our lives and devastated the restaurant industry, the crew at Virtue restaurant, in Chicago s Hyde Park neighborhood, shared staff meal in the same corner of the dining room every day. The ritual was so ingrained in the house culture that, on weekends, chef-owner Erick Williams or a member of the management team would ask long-lingering brunch patrons to leave, so employees could dine before dinner service without the inhibitions that might be activated by prying eyes.

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