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Steely, Dry and Elegant: Eight German Great Growth Rieslings

Getty Grosses Gewächs, or “great growths,” (GG) is Germany’s top designation, which can be used for grapes like Pinot Noir and Silvaner. But Riesling is the most common. These German Rieslings are always vinified completely dry with acidity that is often described as searing. The exceptional quality also means these wines are built to age. Here are eight GG Rieslings to enjoy now or cellar away. Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Abtsberg GG Riesling (Mosel); $70, 97 points. Struck flint and river rocks introduce this brilliantly steely dry Riesling. Compared to the youthful, almost tropical, charm of the producer’s 2019 Herrenberg GG, lime and grapefruit flavors in the Abtsberg are bracing and linear in youth but suggest a depth and elegance that should reward cellaring. Best to hold till 2024 at least. It should evolve wonderfully through 2035 and hold longer still. Loosen Bros. USA.

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