By Robert Neff
One fine morning in the spring of 1893, John Wyers, the constable of the British Legation, left Seoul and walked the 40 kilometers to Jemulpo (modern Incheon). He described it as the most charming walk imaginable ― not many of his fellow expats had the same generous opinion of that walk ― and arrived in the port by afternoon.
A corpse wrapped in straw is left outside the city gate in the late 19th century. / Courtesy of Diane Nars CollectionIt was here that he met his traveling companion, Joseph H. Pownall, an Anglican missionary, and they finished preparing for their trip to Ganghwa Island. Wyers was in good spirits and, judging from his writing, was excited at the prospect of seeing the island that so few knew much about.