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For the authentic flavour of Northern Mexico, Tom voyages to an East London market stall Netil Market, midway between Bethnal Green and London Fields, is new East London to its core – the usual street-food stalls selling bao buns, ‘hand-rolled’ sourdough bagels and hot doughnut sundaes; plenty of ‘discerning boutiques presenting curated articles and crafted wares’. And its very own radio station, operating out of a metal shipping container. Just before lunch on a briskly cold, late November day, and the market, if not quiet, is certainly subdued. Save one stall, by the entrance, where punters linger patiently. ‘Why the wait?’ asks one bemused non-local, gazing at the queue. The man in front of me, haphazardly bearded, wearing mud-splattered Dior trainers and a coat that looks robbed from a nearby grave, glances up from his phone. ‘Because they’re very good.’ And he’s right. Sonora Taquería is very good indeed.

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