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It s lunchtime, and 83-year-old Michel Bordagary sits alone at the center of the long Boarder s Table at
Centro Basco in Chino. All that surrounds him in the empty dining room where he has eaten lunch and dinner for the past 55 years are old photographs on the dark wood-paneled walls.
He can t say for sure how many meals he has had here since 1966, when he boarded a train from Stockton for Chino, with only the clothes on his back and whatever belongings he could carry. Today, he s having Poulet Basque (braised chicken with tomatoes and peppers) and a glass of red house wine.