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Columnist Steve Barnes on the sad privilege of writing obituaries
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Table Hopping By Steve Barnes, senior writer on December 14, 2020 at 8:26 AM
ALBANY Jim Ullom, the city’s best restaurant customer, has died.
Ullom looked like Ben Franklin. He ate and drank like John Falstaff. He wanted. Things. Done. Certain. Ways. He could be abrupt, awkward or even rude in conversation. He’d mutter under his breath if rowdy young people crowded around where he was seated at a bar, their loud pursuit of shots and sweet cocktails fouling his communion with good food and wine. More than one jazz musician who botched a solo saw Ullom, from his front-row seat, with his hands clapped over his ears.
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