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What s in a street name? The spirit of Pio Pico lives on in these family-owned boulevard restaurants

MORE “Pico Boulevard plays host to the unglamorous bits of Los Angeles,” wrote the late great food critic Jonathan Gold. “It is at the center of entry-level capitalism in central Los Angeles, and one of the most vital food streets in the world.” Photo by Mike Schlitt. Pico Boulevard just may be the hardest working street in Los Angeles. It doesn’t have the myth or glamour of Sunset Boulevard, but as the late food critic Jonathan Gold once wrote, “It is at the center of entry-level capitalism in central Los Angeles, and one of the most vital food streets in the world.”

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