TAMPA — The dining room is packed and it’s barely 5 p.m. Getting a table is out of the question. It’s hard enough (though not impossible) to snag a seat at the long wraparound bar, where people in suits straight from the office sidle up to couples on dates and bartenders zip back and forth, a seemingly never-ending number of drinks lining up at the pass. Servers balance trays of hand rolls and .
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