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Photograph by Polenta Valsugana   The heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia is home to some of the country’s most flavoursome and frugal dishes. Francesco Mazzei, chef-patron of three London restaurants, including Sartoria, explains how he fell in love with the region and its ‘cucina povera’ What do you admire most about the food of Puglia? Its variety. As with much of the Mezzogiorno (the Italian south), Puglia is known for some astonishing dishes made using very few ingredients, such as eggless pasta. It’s a classic cucina povera (‘poor food’) culture, but it’s second to none in Italy. And it’s incredibly healthy: the diet is 70% veg, 20% fish and about 10% meat.

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