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Here’s yet another ritual disrupted by the coronavirus: At the end of every year, food writers have to take stock of everything that’s occurred over the past 365 days and come up with some kind of overarching theme to hold together all of the disparate developments. For instance, when I surveyed the scene in December 2019, I was struck by the downsizing occasioned by high rents and staff shortages: I told Eater Charleston that the headline we were most likely to see in 2020 was “Popular chef scraps plans for massive new restaurant; will instead open unmanned small plate vending machine.”

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