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Ricardo Blake is not having it with your jerk egg rolls. “We don’t wanna do jerk pizza,” he says. “I just want to be authentic. I want to be outstanding. You gonna go to a Jamaican restaurant, you look for oxtails, curry goat, jerk chicken. We don’t want jerk pasta.” That’s what the chef told me when I asked him why he doesn’t have a jerk egg roll on the menus at any of his three St. Bess Jerk outposts, three seeds of a nascent empire trafficking in classic Jamaican food, and a few trending mashups.