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I can’t remember how the subject of currants came up. I’m not talking about electrical currents or current events. I’m referring to the fruit, currants. The French call it cassis. I couldn’t understand why currants aren’t as popular in the United States as they are in Europe. They’re a sophisticated tart little black or red berry; to the extent that anyone has the temerity to describe one fruit as more sophisticated than another. I can hear listeners saying, “Well, what about mango?” Or persimmon? Or apricots.

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