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Shutterstock If I had a nickel for every time I’ve heard someone persuade a vegetarian to eat meat with the phrase “paneer samajh ke kha le” (just think of it as paneer), I would have a lot of nickels. Paneer like any basic meat variety—chicken, basa—has no distinct flavour of its own, is a good vehicle for whatever sauce you put on it, and has been a big source of vegetarian protein for decades in India. From chef Saransh Goila’s butter paneer that is a worthy competitor for those daring to attend a butter chicken night only to get eye rolls, to iconic kebab-focused restaurants like Delhi’s Peshawari doing a paneer kebab platter to keep the vegetarians on the table busy—if you’re eating vegetarian food in India, chances are you haven’t felt deprived. Even McDonald’s does a paneer burger slathered with cream sauce and shredded lettuce that looks exactly like the chicken one.

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