The waves were a fun four foot, but nice and powerful as Indonesia gets. Lakey Peak, Sumbawa, was crowded but good enough to keep us out there, hoping for a set wave. It was a really inconsistent swell, making it much more frustrating. There was a crew of locals and a pack of frothing groms. .
Rivalries create tension and interest in sport. Not since Kelly Slater and Andy Irons have we seen a great rivalry. Where have the great surfing rivalries gone?
If the past few years are any indication of a trend at Sunset Beach it's all adding up to goofy footers getting their asses handed to them in the rankings.
There's something brewing in professional surfing. A swing of the pendulum from uber-healthy-athleticism back to a more relaxed breed of surf competitors.