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Wessel Islands, Northern Territory travel guide: A spectacular, forgotten part of Australia

Airports in East Arnhem Land come without security screening (except Gove) and fat chance of a latte. They re little more than corrugated red mud tracks etched out between trees, barely wide enough for a plane to land. Rivers, creeks and estuaries run wild round here when the rains arrive with summer. You won t get in by road; the only way in or out is by air. The coast, the estuaries and East Arnhem Land s savannah woodlands swarm with salt-water crocs bigger than the tinnies everyone gets about in. This chunk of the Northern Territory is almost the size of England, though its population s just shy of 20,000 (compare that to the latter s 56 million).

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