There’s nothing cocktailians like more than to get a taste of unobtanium. For the longest time, that was absinthe, which was off-limits for most of a century though an ingredient in many classic cocktails, such as the Sazerac. Early in the artisanal drinks movement, bartenders had to make do with absinthe substitutes, such as Pernod. The allure of the naughty and the lure of the illicit led to an enthusiasm for the Green Fairy. Now that absinthe is treated like most any other liquor, it is no longer an object of such desire.