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Bar Douro box, Serves 2, £60, bardouro.co.uk Nieves Barragán Mohacho is one hell of a cook. I first tasted her food nearly 20 years back, at the great and pioneering Fino in Fitzrovia. Then followed her through the Barrafina years and on to Sabor, the place she now owns with her friend and business partner José Etura. I’ve never had a bad bite. The Sabor en Casa box (£90, and delivery from £10) is, as you’d expect, magnificent. Postbox red Càdiz prawns, sweet as young love, with a sigh of garlic and nudge of chilli, cooked for a few seconds in a hot pan. Octopus is vac-packed with some olive oil, and warmed in the bag. The dish is finished with salt and smoked sweet paprika. For a second, when I close my eyes, I could be in a Galician bar, rather than cold lockdown London.

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