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Wild beauty, highland charm, wide-open spaces – and no tourists. Our writer discovers Wester Ross’s glorious Shieldaig Bay

Loch eweUnited kingdomMoray firthWester rossScottish highlandsRed pointGruinard bayFraser connalMellon udrigleRua reidhFlowerdale glenKayak centreGairloch museumGairloch canoeShieldaig bayNorth coast