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Ever Andalo comes in Orto's footsteps only to fumble such a promising hand-off, says our food critic Timothy DePeugh.

Trentino alto adigeTimothy depeughCorey owenAl neranoRyan pitkinFernet brancaJeff tonidandelJamie brownEver andaloNorth davidsonExecutive chef corey owenChef owenFake italyReal italySpaghettini al neranoEliana sinclair