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Dec. 13, 2020
This is the most beautiful season in the Yarmuk River valley, on the southern slopes of the Golan Heights. The yellow grasses of summer have given way to a thousand shades of green and birds fill the blue-gray skies. The roadsides boast 1980s-style signs telling travelers they’ll soon be at the turnoff for the magical hot springs, famous crocodile pools and lovely animal corner of Hamat Gader, on the border with Jordan.
This time, though, disappointment lies around the corner. You can feel the desolation from the parking lot, which features just two other cars (one belonging to workers). Heading into the site, more signs of abandonment reveal themselves. A huge enclosure with a sign saying “Please don’t feed us” stands empty, as does another one with the name of the former tenants: olive baboons.