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What next will be new out of Africa T he Oxford Companion to Wine ventures a trenchant opinion  on the quality of wine possible from “the dull Colombard grape” (big  in the Charentes for Cognac and farther south, where it makes Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne; bigger in California as French Colombard). “Pleasantly  lively innocuousness” is attainable,  it proclaims, but “it would take some sorcery to transform Colombard into  an exciting wine.” I don’t know if any examples from California or Gascony might challenge this somewhat depressing picture. Certainly, until the past few years, South Africa where Colombard is the third most planted grape, used for brandy and, yes, many vaguely pleasant and innocuous  (and worse) wines couldn’t have claimed any more.

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