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William Sitwell reviews Straker s, London: I wanted to hate it but not a single dish doesn t appeal

My sleeves were rolled up, the keyboard readied for a pounding. I had spied an interloper on the culinary scene. A YouTuber, for God’s sake. Which sounds like a malevolent growth or a strange potato, but is actually how some young folk get on in life. And this one drips with brands of fancy cars, smart cookware, ultra-fast grocery delivery and high-end tequila.

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