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Waimea Bay: the birthplace of big wave surfing

Waimea Bay: the birthplace of big wave surfing
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Greg Noll: the fearless big wave surfing pioneer

At 6 2 , "Da Bull" was the first surfer to ride the giant waves at Waimea Bay. Greg Noll also shaped iconic surfboards for stars like Miki Dora.

Da Bull : Poster boy of big wave surfing dies at 84

“Da Bull”: Poster boy of big wave surfing dies at 84 We’re sorry, this service is currently unavailable. Please try again later. Dismiss July 10, 2021 2.46pm Normal text size GREG NOLL: 1937–2021 Greg Noll, who has died aged 84, became the first poster boy of big wave surfing, and in 1969 he famously surfed Hawaii’s biggest ever swell. Nicknamed “Da Bull” for his fearlessness and stocky bodybuilder’s physique, Noll was one of a group of Californian longboarders who migrated to the North Shore of the Hawaiian island of Oahu in the 1950s in search of the perfect wave. Surfing great Greg Noll on his deck at home that overlooks the Smith River near Crescent City.

Greg Noll, surfing pioneer who took on what was thought to be the biggest wave ever ridden in Hawaii – obituary

Greg Noll, surfing pioneer who took on what was thought to be the biggest wave ever ridden in Hawaii – obituary
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Greg Noll, swaggering big-wave surfer known as Da Bull, dies at 84

Greg Noll, swaggering big-wave surfer known as ‘Da Bull,’ dies at 84 Harrison Smith Riding waves at Waimea Bay, the dangerous and revered surf break on Oahu’s North Shore, Greg Noll would orient himself by triangulating with two local Hawaiian landmarks, a church steeple and a cemetery. Guided by those symbols of God and death, he dropped in on enormous waves that threatened to explode on top of him, crashing down with a roar that could be heard a mile away. Mr. Noll, a former California lifeguard, was widely credited with leading the opening charge at Waimea, helping to extinguish a taboo that had persisted since 1943, when surfer Dickie Cross drowned while trying to make his way to shore. After more than a decade in which surfers avoided the break, Mr. Noll and a few others paddled out in November 1957, dropping in on 15-foot waves and showing that it was possible to ride there without being crushed to death or pulled out to sea in a riptide.

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