Train trips around the world allow you to relax in the picturesque scenery. In Europe, there is no better way to enjoy the stunning views. Riding on the rails gives you a glimpse into some of the most.
filetti di baccalà fritti (battered salt cod). Photograph: Rachel Roddy/The Guardian
One Valentine’s Day, a few years ago, we went to a well-known, mostly loved place just off Campo de’ Fiori called Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara. I can’t remember if it was a late lunch or early dinner, but we sat down at about 6pm, along with four or five other couples, some Roman, some tourists, and all well over 70. If you were to describe a classic and functional Roman joint – the Tetris of small tables and framed pictures, wood fittings and condiment station – you would probably come close to Dar Filettaro. It serves only one thing,