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Caring and intelligent, Doug Scott was a climbing superstar, - Chris Bonington

Doug Scott DOUG Scott’s life story reads like an epic and thrilling adventure. As the news of his passing spread this week, tributes poured in for this gentle, intelligent, and caring man, regarded by many as one of most impressive and respected mountaineers of the 20th century. He was the first Englishman to climb Everest via its daunting south-west face. As part of Sir Chris Bonington’s famous 1975 expedition, Scott and his Scottish climbing partner Dougal Haston enjoyed the thrill of the summit on September 24 – but they faced a true test of nerve during the descent. One hundred metres below the summit, as darkness fell, they dug a snow hole and retreated into it to spend a brutally cold night at a altitude of 8,760 metres.

Doug Scott: The first English mountaineer to conquer Everest

Doug Scott: The first English mountaineer to conquer Everest Marcus Williamson © Provided by The Independent Doug Scott, who has died aged 79, was one of the world’s greatest mountaineers, an inveterate climber who had made 45 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. Scott and his climbing partner Dougal Haston became the first Britons to conquer Everest, making their ascent via the notorious southwest face, in 1975. Douglas Scott was born in Nottingham in 1941, the eldest of three sons of Edith Scott and George Scott, a policeman and amateur boxer. Scott began climbing on the Black Rocks in Derbyshire, aged 12, after seeing climbers on this weathered stone outcrop during a hike with the Boy Scouts.

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