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anthony: lavash, the national bread. an ever-present feature on the armenian table and a part of everyday life. baked on a tonir, or underground clay oven, its preparation is passed down from generation to generation. markets like gum, near the city center, date back to soviet days. but they remain a favorite stop for an older generation of armenians. mariam: [ speaking foreign language ] anthony: october brings an array of seasonal produce, and mariam and her grandmother lia pick up ingredients for a fall tradition: ghapama, a rice dish baked in pumpkin.

Clay ovenCity centerDiaspora armenians