There are enough surf books out there to fill a Teahupo’o barrel. Only a few meet my criteria for "required reading." Here are 10 every surfer should read.
"After the Dec. 7, 1941, surprise attack at Pearl Harbor, blackout drills were immediately instituted in Santa Cruz County," writes Local History columnist Ross Eric Gibson. "Mayor Edwin Rich said on Dec. 9, 1941, to shop early before the mandatory 5 p.m. store closings, since most air attacks in war zones were made around dusk."
On July 21, 2021, Cameron Thompson was swimming at Puntledge River in Courtenay, B.C., on Vancouver Island. He dove into the water head first and ended up severing his spinal cord.
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