Embrace it: Champagne with little or no added sugar
Dave McIntyre, The Washington Post
Dec. 18, 2020
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Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Nature.Leif Carlsson
With all that s happened this year, word that the champagne house Billecart-Salmon has released its first brut nature cuvée will not rank in the top stories of 2020, even in wine. But somewhere, a champagne geek s eyebrows are bouncing up and down, creating ripples in the wine-time continuum that may have subtle effects in how we savor our bubbles in the future.
Champagne is fixed in our imagination as the wine of luxury and frivolity, extolled in belle epoque-style posters as the favorite tipple of les belles femmes de Paris, dangling bare ankles as they lift their sparkling coupes in a toast to the good life. That image persists because champagne producers have embraced it and prices have supported it. Champagne has not evolved much, because it doesn t have incentive to do so.