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I’ve been a fan of Cakebread Cellars wines for a long time. My fandom first started during the final weeks that The Trace was still open in Hillsboro Village when they were closing out their wine list. I discovered Cakebread chardonnay for $30 a bottle, pretty darned close to retail prices, and I thought it was one of the best chards I’d ever tasted. Even though it’s 100 percent aged in oak, I found the sweet wood to be much less of an oak bomb than other California chardonnays, and I personally tore through more than a half-case of bottles during that heady spring of 2008 as the discounts became deeper at the foundering fern bar.