it s good, yeah. could i have one? a berber favorite, fresh goat cheese wrapped in palm leaves. yeah, they re beautiful, aren t they? it s good. [ speaking foreign language ] a little cheese, a little flat bread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we re headed in to the jabal foothills in the mountain range about 80 kilometers south of tangier to a place called jajouka. the village is home to the people of the al sharif tribe, which loosely translated means the saintly people. jajouka is also home to one of morocco s better-known musicians, bashir attar. jazz and rock n roll musicians
for morocco and the friendliness and the courtesy of the people and its children. it s bonjour. [ speaking foreign language ] i always feel welcomed here. i never consider that this is mine. it s theirs and they ve allowed me to feel here in a nice way. i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. there is a side-by-side aspect to life here that s very unusual. very unusual here. it s mostly you can do whatever you want if you do it with good manners. it is a station of the cross for, you know, bad boys of culture. i mean, rambo. iggy pop. the stones. burroughs writes and came here to be a writer. he was a junkie before he was a writer. as so many of us were. a place to think of yourself as a writer you would come here and somehow working within a romantic tradition. yes.
mayo. french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious. by the way. the bread here is very good. you work in magazine journalist? yes. i m not a journalist but i own an urban magazine here in tangier to inform moroccans we are living in a place that s pretty special. it is not a place for burroughs or paul bowles or other people came to tangier. the city has something which makes it different from other cities. what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? do they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonderland of the 50s? some were. some weren t. too bohemian. too bohemian? yeah. they thought that coming and being an artist is going to be enough? is going to be enough. today it is not enough. most of them pack their bags. right.
somewhere and something else. the grand socco is the gateway to the medina where you could find the kasbah, which means fortress, by the way. the port is to the east, and right in the middle of it all, the petit socco, called the last spot, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. as burroughs called it. reasons for settling in tangier diverge, but everyone sooner or later, since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. jonathan dawson came to this city over 20 years ago as a journalist and he never left. he lives a life not too distant from burroughs fantasy. cake and tea at 4:00 every day served by his man servant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. and every day he makes the rounds of the cafes, seeing all the old faces, ending up sooner