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Mamá Reyna and crew at Veracruz All Natural.
Courtesy of Veracruz All Natural
Yolanda Guerrero, a taquera with mostly silver hair neatly pulled back and covered by a hairnet, is standing in the doorway of her East Austin taco trailer, Tacos Guerrero. She’s recounting how she got into the food business. In the 1990s, Guerrero beat a hundred other competitors in a cooking contest in her native Monterrey, Mexico. Her winning array of dishes included fluffy, orangey-red rice, chiles rellenos, and half a cabrito (milk-fed kid goat). Guerrero worked at restaurants and cleaned houses and food trucks before her son bought her a trailer in 2016. “You don’t need to work for anyone else anymore,” she remembers him saying proudly.
The birria ramen at Calisience in Fort Worth.
Photograph by José R. Ralat
Fort Worth is dotted with plainly decorated white taco trucks. They’re stationed in supermarket parking lots, next to gas stations, and anywhere else there is space for a mobile food rig. Many sell the standard pork-beef-chicken options. Some advertise trompos. Few are as noteworthy as Calisience, a nearly year-old taco truck that’s tucked into the back of a concrete and gravel lot in the city’s Riverside neighborhood. A near-constant stream of cars can often be seen turning into Calisience’s lot on Belknap, just past an AutoZone store and across the street from a Mexican bakery. In those cars mostly pickup trucks customers wait in a drive-through line until they pull up in front of the truck. That’s where owner Jacqueline Anaya takes cash-only orders. On a recent Saturday afternoon, just over an hour went by from the time my family and I got in line to when we took our first bites. The food is wel