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This new café in Mumbai s Todi Mills compound will whisk you off you to South America

The anatomy of a new restaurant in 2021 should be like this: it should make you feel like you’re on a vacation without having to take the dreaded COVID test. It should keep you close to nature. Shouldn’t serve any of 2020’s overdone foods like banana bread or Dalgona coffee (the sourdough can stay). And it should have great music, food and drinks—the only three things we are carrying forward from last year. Cafe Panama ticks all the right boxes. Thirty five-year-old entrepreneur Sohel Lalvani’s and Shaan Gidwani s all-new cafe is one of the first five new dining spaces to launch in the city. And if beginner s luck is really a thing, he has lucked out on this 3,500sqft space that reminds me of JLo walking down the runaway for Versace spring 2020. But I’ll come to that later.

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