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Hugging Sava River’s southern shore, Bundek Park is a verdant collection of tree-lined pathways and an artificial reservoir in Croatia’s capital, Zagreb. The green space, opened in 2006, could easily be imagined in a larger, more glamorous European capital. Just three kilometres to the east lies Jakusevec, Zagreb’s garbage dump which famously burst into flames two years ago. Just five kilometres to the west of the park is a decaying hospital complex, abandoned mid-construction in 1992. Plans to address both eyesores have come and gone, lost in a tangle of alleged corruption, bureaucratic wrangling, and a game of broken telephone between local and national governments.

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