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At Tibor’s Kosher Meats, they chop the liver just so. That’s what has kept customers like Shirley, who is 84 and spoke on the condition her last name not be used because the shop has recently become the subject of scandal, coming back decade after decade. The gleaming silver case always has what she wants, Shirley explained, and until recently, the man who often reached in and wrapped it up for her was the eponymous owner himself, Tibor Rosenberg. “Is Tibor coming back?” Shirley asked at the cash register one recent day as she handed over a fistful of bills. The clerk grunted a curt “no,” and Shirley packed her change into her purse. She shook her head: “That’s too bad.”

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