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THE LOCATION Turn off the Pacific Highway, a three-hour drive north of Sydney, or under two from Newcastle, and the countryside rucks into purple hills and green valleys dotted with black pointillist cattle. Gum trees are a silver sheen against the sun. The road gets narrower, snaking through eucalyptus forest, and you can feel your urban bother peeling away. Then you round a bend, the ocean is a blue explosion through your windscreen, and you ve arrived in the sleepy enclave of Seal Rocks. THE PLACE Just a few dozen houses and a camping ground comprise Seal Rocks, leaving all the attention directed towards its two sweeping white slashes of sand, forest-draped headlands and blue ocean outlooks. The village lies at the eastern end of Myall Lakes National Park, whose coastal lakes and wetlands teem with wading birds. Expansive beaches hereabouts are barely marked by a footprint. Fifteen minutes uphill walk from Davies Cottage, past massive sand dunes, is Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse,

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