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Willy Wonka would have set up a factory in the Lake District, such is the region's obvious and unabashed love of sweet eccentricity. This is my first thought as I walk down the lanes and side streets of Ulverston, the first of the major towns as you enter "The Lakes". Strictly speaking, it's on the fringes, not in the park itself, but I was here for a weekend with my friend, Nicky, who had decided to leave the four-wheel-drive land of Barnes, and debouche to Ulverston, home of Laurel and Hardy, sweet shops and quaint idiosyncrasy. And it's a delight. Blue plaques on the walls of buildings, from bakers to banks, tell of the history of the place, and it has a feel of a winter Alpine resort; built for harsh long winters, although Nicky assures me it only had ten days of snow and ice last year. During our visit, they were celebrating their Dickensian festival, when locals dress up in Victorian attire and parade their petticoats and top hats, looking like extras ou