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A SLOVENIAN start-up company called Juicy Marbles has unveiled a product it describes as “plant-based filet mignon marbled with sunflower oil” It’s a first for the fake meat industry. While it’s one thing to stuff a coloured, flavoured patty of chemically modified, commodity protein mulch in a bun and pass it off as a burger, mimicking the eating quality of a well marbled fillet steak is a Mission Impossible. Judging from the pictures, Juicy Marbles has a long way to go in its Shangri-La quest to ape real cuts of meat. Its efforts to date look like the toy food you get in Fisher-Price play kitchens. Those plastic models of sushi you see in Japan look much more realistic. Try feeding a Juicy Marbles steak to your dog and watch it look up at you with a doleful, disbelieving “Why would you ever expect me to eat that?” expression.

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