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Once famous for the sentimental song 'A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square' – and for rumours that a building formerly occupied by the antiquarian booksellers Maggs Bros is one of the most haunted places in London – Berkeley Square has reinvented itself over the past few years as one of the premier locations for high-end, plutocratic restaurants. You've got the absurdly named Sexy Fish, the excellent Benares and, just a stone's throw away, Hakkasan, Nobu and the exclusive members' club Annabel's. ('Black tie may only be taken off on the dancefloor.') So anywhere joining the elite ranks is facing quite the challenge; how can you make yourself stand out in such competition? Enter the enigmatically named 20 Berkeley, lurking around the corner on Berkeley Street. It's part of the same group as the excellent Sumi and Humo, the so-called Creative Restaurant Group, and the focus here is on that much-maligned but usually worthwhile breed of cui

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